The Hanky Code

The hanky code (also known as the handkerchief code, the bandana code, and flagging) is a traditional form of signaling most commonly used in the gay and leather communities. The "code" employs color coded handkerchiefs and the way they are worn to indicate preferred sexual interests, the kind of sex the wearer is interested in, and whether they are a Top or bottom. Hankies can be worn around the wrist, ankle, or leg (at the thigh, above the knee), or around the neck with the tie going either right or left. Other objects such as keys, key chains, watch fobs, or even handcuffs can also be used to communicate. For example, a black handkerchief worn on the left might indicate an SM top, while the same handkerchief worn on the right indicates the person is an SM bottom. However, there is no singular authority on what certain placements and colors mean, and they are likely to vary by community. You can see one version of a hanky code key here. ### Origins of the Term Wearing colored bandanas was common among cowboys, railroad workers, and miners in the American West during the mid- to late-1800s. One origin story traces this practice to post–Gold Rush San Francisco, where a shortage of women meant men often danced with each other at social events like square dances. To signal who would take which role, dancers used a simple color code: a blue bandana indicated the “male” part, while a red bandana marked the “female” part. These bandanas were typically worn around the arm, tucked into a belt, or hanging from a back pocket. It is an early example of using clothing to quietly communicate role and preference. It is thought that the modern hanky code started in New York City in the 1970s when a "Village Voice" journalist jokingly suggested gay men could wear different colored handkerchiefs to indicate specific sexual interests and roles.